Austria takes Christmas seriously. Not in the commercial sense — in the older sense, the one that involves handmade ornaments, mulled wine served in ceramic mugs, and markets that have been held in the same cathedral squares since the seventeenth century. Vienna, Salzburg, and Innsbruck each have their own version of this, and each one is worth the journey on its own. Together, over ten days from Prague, they form one of the most genuinely festive trips you can make in December.
The distances are manageable: Prague to Vienna is three and a half hours by private car. Vienna to Salzburg is three hours by train. Salzburg to Innsbruck is two hours by car through the Tyrolean Alps. You are not racing between airports or managing connecting flights — you are moving through a landscape that is already wearing its winter best, from one illuminated city centre to the next.
Vienna: Two Christmas Markets Worth Your Time
Vienna has several Christmas markets, but two stand above the rest.
Christkindlmarkt am Rathausplatz is the main event — 150 stalls arranged around the illuminated neo-Gothic City Hall, which is strung with lights from late November through the end of December. The market is large and well-stocked: hand-blown glass ornaments, Advent wreaths, leather goods, Austrian ceramics, and enough Glühwein and Punsch to spend an entire afternoon. There is a skating rink beside the market for those who want one. It is crowded, especially on weekends, but the setting — the Rathaus lit up behind, the stalls in front, the Ringstrasse boulevard flanking it on either side — is hard to fault.
Schönbrunn Palace Christmas Market is the quieter alternative. Held in the forecourt of the Baroque palace on the western edge of the city, it has fewer stalls and fewer people, and considerably more architectural grandeur. If the Rathausplatz market is Vienna showing off, the Schönbrunn market is Vienna being elegant. Both are worth visiting; they are about thirty minutes apart by public transport.
Vienna's markets typically open in mid-November and run until December 26th. The Rathausplatz market stays open until around 9 or 10 in the evening, which makes the evening visit — when the lights are at their best and the day-trippers have thinned out — the recommended one.
Salzburg: The Oldest Market on the Route
Salzburg's Christkindlmarkt am Domplatz is one of the oldest Christmas markets in Austria. It has been held in the Cathedral Square since the late seventeenth century, which means it predates the commercial Christmas market as a concept and is simply what Salzburg does in December.
The setting is extraordinary: the market stalls arranged in a square between the Cathedral and the Residence, with the fortress on the cliff above the city visible from the market itself. The atmosphere is genuinely festive without being contrived. The stalls sell traditional Salzburg crafts — carved nativity figures, hand-painted ceramics, beeswax candles — alongside the standard Austrian market fare of spiced wine, roasted chestnuts, and Lebkuchen in shapes that have not changed since the market started.
Salzburg also has smaller markets at Mirabell Palace and on the Residenzplatz, both walkable from the Cathedral Square. The combination of Christmas markets, Baroque architecture, and winter light makes Salzburg in December arguably better than Salzburg in July — and in July, it is already very good.
Innsbruck: Alpine Christmas at the Golden Roof
Innsbruck is where the Christmas markets meet the mountains properly. The city sits in a valley enclosed by the Alps on three sides, and in December the peaks above it are snow-covered from October onwards. The contrast between the medieval old town and the mountains directly behind it is one of the more striking things Austria has to offer in any season; in December, with the markets lit up and the mountains white, it is particularly good.
The main market is centred on the Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse, in front of the Goldenes Dachl — the Golden Roof, a late-Gothic oriel covered in 2,657 fire-gilded copper tiles, built around 1500 and now the most recognisable building in the city. The stalls here sell Tyrolean crafts: wood carvings, felt goods, hand-knitted woolens, and the local variant of mulled wine, which tends toward the stronger end of the spectrum.
Innsbruck runs several markets simultaneously in December — the main old-town market, a market at the Hofburg palace, and the Swarovski Crystal World market for those inclined toward sparkle. The whole ensemble is compact enough to cover in an afternoon.
Hallstatt in December
Hallstatt is not primarily a Christmas market destination, but it is one of the most beautiful places in Austria to visit in winter. In summer, the lakeside village sees up to ten thousand visitors per day and the lakefront fills with tour groups from dawn to dusk. In December, the crowds are gone. The lake is still and dark blue. The mountains above the village are covered in snow. The famous view — the village reflected in the Hallstätter See, the church spire rising above the rooftops — is if anything better in winter than in summer.
Hallstatt does have a small Advent market on certain December weekends, held in the narrow lanes above the lakefront, with local producers and craft sellers. It is worth checking the dates before you go. But even without the market, Hallstatt in December is an experience that the summer version cannot replicate.
Practical Tips for Christmas Markets in Austria
Market dates. Most Austrian Christmas markets open in mid-November (around the 15th–18th) and run until December 24th or 26th. Vienna's Rathausplatz market runs slightly longer. Check specific dates before booking, especially if your trip is at the very beginning or end of the season.
Weekends vs weekdays. Weekend afternoons are the busiest time at any Christmas market. If you have a choice, visit on a Thursday or Friday — you get the same stalls, the same lights, and considerably more space to move around them.
Carry cash. Many market stalls are cash only, or accept card only reluctantly. The deposit for the ceramic mug (Pfand) that comes with your Glühwein is almost always cash. Have €20–30 in small bills on hand at each market.
Dress for it. December in Vienna, Salzburg, and Innsbruck is cold — typically 0°C to 5°C, sometimes below zero. Standing at a market stall for two hours requires more layers than sightseeing indoors. Waterproof footwear is useful in Hallstatt, where the lakeside can be slippery.
Book hotels immediately. December is peak season in all four cities on this route. Hotels in Salzburg and Innsbruck in particular fill up by September for the Christmas period. If you are planning a December trip, accommodation needs to be booked as soon as the dates are confirmed.
Carry euro coins. Public toilets in Austria charge €0.50–1.00, payable in cash — most often by coin. This applies at motorway service stations, tourist sites, and in city centres near the markets. Have small change ready.
Getting from Prague to the Austrian Christmas Markets
Prague to Vienna is 330 kilometres — three and a half hours by private car, four hours by direct train. For a group of three or more, a private car is more practical: door-to-door from your Prague hotel, no fixed departure time, luggage handled. For solo travellers or couples, the train is a comfortable and reasonable alternative.
Once in Vienna, the onward movement to Salzburg and Innsbruck follows the pattern the route is built around: trains for the main transfers, private car for the day trips and the Salzburg–Innsbruck leg. The guide coordinates everything — tickets, timing, the early morning departure to Hallstatt — so the trip moves without the planning overhead that this kind of multi-city itinerary normally involves.
Frequently Asked Questions
When do the Christmas markets open in Vienna and Salzburg?
Typically mid-November — around November 14th–18th — and they run until December 24th or 26th. Vienna's Rathausplatz market sometimes extends to December 26th. Exact dates vary slightly by year; we check and confirm current dates when planning each trip.
Is Hallstatt worth visiting in December?
Yes — arguably more so than in summer. In December there are no tour buses, the lake is quiet, and the mountains above the village are snow-covered. The summer crowds that fill the lakefront by noon are entirely absent. It is one of the most atmospheric stops on the December route.
How far in advance should I book hotels for Christmas in Austria?
As far in advance as possible — ideally by September for a December trip. Salzburg and Innsbruck at Christmas fill up quickly, and prices rise significantly as December approaches. We strongly recommend confirming accommodation before booking the tour.
What is included in the tour price?
Private guide for 9 days, private car for all day trips (Hallstatt, Salzkammergut, Salzburg to Innsbruck), and the guide's train tickets. Not included: client accommodation, client train tickets (Vienna–Salzburg and Seefeld–Vienna), museum entrance fees, and meals.
Can this tour run outside December?
Yes — the same 10-day route through Vienna, Salzburg, Hallstatt, and Innsbruck is available year-round. April, May, September, and October are all excellent alternatives. The Christmas market element is specific to November–December; the rest of the programme runs in any season.